Redbeard.... here you go.... Front Axles Bearing hub to steering knuckle (replace bolts with new) Stage 1..... 15 ft-lb Stage 2..... additional 90 degree Brake caliper to steering knuckle (replace bolts with new) 81 ft-lb Brake disc to bearing hub (replace screws with new) 20 ft-lb Drive axle outer CV joint to bearing hub (replace flange nut with new) 134 ft-lb Road wheel to hub 103 +- 7 ft-lb Wheel speed sensor to steering knuckle 6 ft-lb
I agree, but MINI and Bentley are conservative and of course they like to sell parts. It was suggested this way in the Bentley Service Manual, so I thought I would include it. They probably suggest changing fasteners since the book starts at 2007 and they wouldn't know how much corrosion has set in..... Start having failed fasteners, then all of a sudden attorneys start knocking at the door.....
Hehe, good point. Actually, there are people out there who follow this stuff to the letter. Check out Doug's Domain :: Home sometime and the E36 blog on there.
Any time a torque angle is specified, use new bolts. The original bolts can be measured for stretch against a new bolt, but because bolts can have varying features depending on manufacturer, it's possible to see a false measurement. Replacing a TTY bolt is safest. The axle nut would "need" to be replaced if the soft sleeve was cracked, or badly deformed/thread damage from removing the original crimp. It can be reused and new crimp knocked into it.
A trend is forming, early model R50 CVT with non-belted hydraulic engine mount. The other CVT engine suspension mounts tear dramatically also.
One more reason to ditch the CVT. Surprised none of the vendors has put together a "Ditch the CVT" kit with part numbers and instructions.
While they are at it, I'd like to see ditch the power steering kit. And ditch the power brakes kit. Giving up the DSC would be tough, so maybe just a turn down the power brakes kit.
Thank you for your concern. I can't say I'm safe due to the conditions, but no fires are threatening nearby.
There was a knock that seemed to be coming from the transmission, which turned out to be from the flywheel instead. The flywheel has a sprung secondary mass that is supposed to only move radially, this one moves in all directions. It's time to have the input shaft bearing evaluated. Having seen the level of failure in the engine/transmission suspension mounts, I think the CVT is a good candidate for a crankshaft vibration damper. There is a small rubber strip incorporated in the stock crank pulley, but I don't imagine it has much of a frequency damping range.
Meticulous doesn't even do his work justice.... Glad I stumbled upon this thread. I know that blue mini, I cannot believe it was spitting plugs!
OEM front lower control arm replacement, out with the old, in with the new, and a modified strut spring tool to R&R the control arm.
New Passenger Side Half Shaft. I think the original had been degraded for some time. Car is smooth at any speed now. Not even a hint of vibration. Take that CV joint!
Yeah Nate, my little brain figured that out about the same time you were typing. Want big pic, pick big pic. Dah
Today's Job #10 Unlike the majority of R56 clutch failures I encounter, the flywheel in this case is not to blame. The secondary mass has little rock, radial movement is less than 20 degrees, and the springs & elastomers bounce back quickly. The clutch is still toast though. The friction material is about as thin as poster paper on one side. Note the segmentation grooves are wiped out. This R56 gets an OS Giken GTS clutch kit. I use a PVC coupler and 9/16 socket to align the disc. The driver's side output shaft seal was leaking. The R56 seal is shaped differently than the R53, so I needed a different seal driver. I found a PVC fitting in the exact dimensions including a beveled angle to support the protective cover crown evenly. This MINI must have spent a few years on the beach; fastener oxidation was extensive. Rust combined with excessive torque in the past made for tough disassembly. The AC dryer was leaking dye colored PAG fluid. I hope the customer's warranty will cover this failure, because it will be pricey.
Hi k-huevo, I have a question about replacing banjo bolt with two washer(o-rings) on top of turbo. I have 2008 clubman S and I see minor leak there (top and bottom of turbo. Mostly bottom parts is wet but no dripping.) I am thinking to replace two washers and banjo bolt first before going any further. Do you know what is the torque for bolt? Is it correct to replace turbo oil pipe, whole turbo needs to be come off? I guess at least replacing banjo bolt and crush washer is DIY-able. Thanks for your help.