Haha, I just read your answer.... Yup, I did the math correctly. Thanks again Paul...
And Jim..... Your horses need feedin....pittouii....
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If anyone is interested, when I get back to work on Monday and can look over my reference books I'll publish the K factors for a lot of different lubes, greases and Loctite. (yea that changes the K too).
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Crashton Club Coordinator
I don't know for sure Chuck, but 10% sounds like a good guess to me. Anti-seize is a very good idea.
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Torque-tension equation for fasteners
T=KDF
Where:
T=torque (inch-lbs)
D=diameter of screw (inches)
F=force (lbs) "tension in screw"
K=Friction factor (not the coefficient of friction)
The friction factor for dry screws is ~ .15 to .17. The factor for oiled screws is about .12 to .13. This results in a torque reduction of between 13% to 29% for oiled screws relative to a dry torque spec. If you only reduce the torque by 10% you risk stripping the threads or yielding the screw.
Never Seize can reduce the K factor even further. -
Metalman Well-Known MemberLifetime Supporter
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I was holding off until I heard back from the M/A brain pool.
I went with a 25% reduction on my torque setting.
Molybdenum disulfide has a K=.11
Graphite has a K=.16
No stripped aluminum threads...
Thanks Paul.... -
I don't think the reason this particular fastener is blamed for stripped threads on the trailing arm, is due to corrosion. It is a tapered self tapping bolt, and if it is not carefully threaded in, it can cut new grooves over the originals. I would suspect corroded bolt threads could gall on their way out and back in again, but once again I think attention to feel could minimize the affect.
I've yet to find definitive guidance on lubrication with self tapping bolts and their torque values, but self tapping bolts are in a class of their own, just like applying lubrication alters torque specs. I primarily rely on Carroll Smith's book for answers, but he hates self tapping bolts & screws, and says little about them. What Mr. Smith says in general, it is better to over-torque than under-torque (keep in mind he builds race cars). So, I clean the threads, light lube, thread carefully, and torque to 122 ft-lb. -
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Keith, mine had absolutely no corrosion. I know it's not a particular good idea to have dissimilar metals in contact with each other and water, and especially with the salt they throw on the roads here in Ohio, as this can start galvanic action. The graphite based anti seize was an attempt to prevent moisture wicking up into this particular fastener and aluminum connection. I was very careful and finger threaded the bolt into place and it was more than half way in before I put the wrench to it.
I am particularly interested in the 122 ft lb setting. You don't feel it's necessary to adjust for the lubrication factor? And is it because it's a tapered bolt (by the way I didn't notice it being tapered but the threads seems very shallow to me), that precludes using a lower torque value? -
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Good idea Paul....
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I use lube, so the self tapping threads will "find the path of least Resistance" on their way into the aluminum trailing arm, I torque to original spec, so the bolt will fasten securely for sure. The lower strut bolt is subjected to great loads, I want the insert to handle the shear forces, to do that it can't be allowed to move. Carroll Smith's Nuts, Bolts, Fasteners, and Plumbing, handbook has numerous reports of failures, avoiding failure is my core reasoning.
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My MINI is sitting in the shop overnight, so I didn't drive it home tonight. Torquing to 122 ft lbs with a graphite base anti-seize shouldn't strip the soft aluminum threads?
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No.
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Thanks Keith, I'll be setting it to 122 tomorrow.
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Interesting thread.
I like the difference of opinion between the 2 schools: engineers and mechanics. The math of the k-values appeals to my sense of logic, but I'm also afraid to lower the torque by as much as it implies (20%). On the other hand, it's hard to argue against real world experience: I expect Keith has had those bolts in and out many times and would know if 122 ftlbs caused stripping.
btw I managed to strip one of mine last year (there's a thread about it here somewhere). It was the third time reinstalling the shock. I was using anti-seize and and the torque wrench was set for 122. I can't say for sure I didn't cross thread it though - I forgot it was aluminum and I wasn't being super-careful. But anyway ymmv as they say. -
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For those interested...
[ame="http://www.amazon.com/Fasteners-Plumbing-Handbook-Motorbooks-Workshop/dp/0879384069"]Amazon.com: Carroll Smith's Nuts, Bolts, Fasteners and Plumbing Handbook (Motorbooks Workshop) (9780879384067): Carroll Smith: Books@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51wiaKeZAXL.@@AMEPARAM@@51wiaKeZAXL[/ame] -
The dry torque is specified as 122 foot pounds ... If you apply graphite to the threads and then apply the dry torque value you are highly likely to: 1) snap the screw.. or 2) strip the threads in the aluminum. (Which is most likely how the threads striped out of the aluminum with the 122 ft-lbs torque while using anti seize compound in the post above.) If you want to prevent the corrosion, then there is another method. Apply Loctite 222 and reduce the torque by ~15%. It is a low strength thread locker. The Loctite effects the K factor so you'll need to adjust the torque appropriately. It will seal the threads to prevent corrosion but is low enough in strength that it will not be difficult to remove the screw.
I supplied the info and equations above to help show that this is not "opinion", it's well established science.
In deference to Mr. Smith, over torquing can be disastrous, often leading to sudden failure. While I agree that self tapping screws are problematic, there are ways to properly use them. A good reference is The Design and Behavior of the Bolted Joint, by John Bickford.
No offense intense to anyone here. -
Here is a "cheat sheet" for K factors .....
Cheers... :smile5:Attached Files:
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Metalman Well-Known MemberLifetime Supporter
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Thanks Paul....
I especially liked the "Nut Factor", fits me perfectly.....
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