Suspension Brakes Most liked posts in thread: Torque Setting...

Thanks for the K Factor table.
So looking at the K table, Black Oxide and Never-Seize are about the same K factor (0.17). Thus, I would think 122 ft-lbs would be good.

 

I have done a lot of testing with a Skidmore-Wilhelm device made especially for the purpose of determining K factors. I circled the values that I would recommend. (0.17 for dry black oxide screws and ~ .11 for Never-Seize.). I wouldn't go above .13 for Never-Seize. IMHO.... Basically anything you put on the threads tends to decrease the K..

 

Excellent information!! Thanks for sharing.

 

Just wanted to Bump this Thread. There is some very good info here that applies to more than suspension components!

Thanks for the Posting Paul

 

No problem....

Interesting that you posted this today... I am in the middle of building the prototype of a ~5,600 Hp single stage centrifugal compressor that I designed for my employer as an extension of my product line. (Currently my compressors top out at 2,500 hp.) Think of your MINI's turbo weighing 12,000 pounds... This is a beast!

I have designed the impeller attachment to the pinion shaft with a dual keyed drive hub and a single center screw. I cannot afford for this screw to lose its grip...and don't want to risk simply guessing at the K factor or use a generic chart value. So rather than "torquing" the screw, I designed a special 1-1/8"-12 center stud, nut, and a hydraulic stud stretcher (~5,000 psi) to pull 87,000 lbs of force on the screw. Final stretch is about 0.012". Measuring the actual stretch eliminates some of the guess work.

There are very special torque wrenches that use an ultrasonic signal to measure the stretch in a screw...far more accurate than "torquing". These tools are super expensive so for my car, I just use a calibrated torque wrench... You might want to consider buying a few torque wrenches ..one for small screws, perhaps one with a max of 20 ft lbs... and another for larger screws...maybe 150 ft lb max. You should always try to use a torque wrench near the middle of it range....if you are out at either end of the range....min or max and the calibration is likely to be off.

 

Paul:

I have 4 torque wrenches, no air tools, so it is all old school for me.


Judging by what you might be working on it sounds military Or at least large ship stuff!

Thanks for thoughts. I think I am going with Swift Springs and Bilstien HD shocks.

Hope this works! I have NEVER had problems assembling anything before, unless you count the time when as a teenager I snapped a head bolt on a flathead I was putting together and almost finished when it snapped. Should have put new bolts on it... Lesson learned!

 

Ha ha.. I did the same thing with a Porsche 914. We've all been there at one time or another.. Good luck.