Welcome to MA. Try putting it on jack stands put it in gear and release the clutch to see if the wheels move. If so go through another gear and check it. See if you hear the sound. Also look at the splines inside the transmission to see if they are ok.
Make sure the car is stable on the stands and no one is in front of the car. Don't give it gas just check the operation of the moving parts with no weight on them.
Page 1 of 2
-
Metalman Well-Known MemberLifetime Supporter
- Sep 29, 2009
- 7,688
- Ex-Owner (Retired) of a custom metal fab company.
- Ratings:
- +7,960 / 1 / -0
Check to see if maybe one of the splined axle shafts might have popped out of the side of the transmission axle carrier... It's happened to others...
-
Like x 1
- List
-
-
Like x 1
- List
-
-
Minidave Well-Known MemberLifetime Supporter
And BTW #2, you cannot buy that intermediate bearing anywhere in the US except by getting it with a new axle assembly - UNLESS - you go to the OEM source in Poland and import them directly (what I did for a friend's '02 Cooper S. They were only $22 but it took a month to get them)
-
Like x 1
- List
-
-
Crashton Club Coordinator
-
Welcome, thanks for joining Motoring Alliance, the FUN and Friendly MINI Community.
-
Like x 1
- List
-
-
BlimeyCabrio Oscar Goldman of MINIsLifetime Supporter
- May 4, 2009
- 2,896
- Professional Facilitator and Alignment Consultant
- Ratings:
- +2,896 / 0 / -0
Doesn't sound like drive shafts to me. 2003 is the Midlands 5-speed tranny, yes?
Those are known to fail... much less robust than the Getrag 6-speed.-
Like x 1
- List
-
Your problem seems to be internal to the transmission so you have to pull it out. Once it is on the ground, with it in a gear, you can spin the input shaft to see if the output also spins. If the input and output are not positively connected you have nothing to lose cracking the case open. There are how to videos and threads for installing limited slip diff's that will cover splitting the case. I don't know what parts are available besides differentials but maybe you can get lucky.
-
Like x 1
- List
-
-
So I think Jack Nicholson may be right...I had tested the shorter drive shaft by pulling the wheel end loose and rotating it to hear the gears in the transmission move, but I never did that on the other side. Well today I was pulling it apart again to drop the trans. I compared the drive shafts; The short ones matched, the long ones didn't. The one that I ordered and installed seems shorter from the bearing carrier bracket to the transmission. I don't know if you can see it from the pictures, but only like 1/16th inch (or less) of the thread was contacting anything inside the transmission. The part that was was ground off. I guess might have been what I heard when I first put it all together and tried pulling it out of the garage? So...I'm going to order some of those drive shafts that you linked, Dave, but is there anything that I need to know as far as options? I mean the one that I got looks almost perfect, the bracket mounts up, the splines seem to be the right amount to fit, but the length was just a bit short. Did I get a non-S version or something?
-
Like x 1
- List
-
-
Interestingly enough I found out, from a thread on another forum, that all I needed to do was switch out the bearing carrier from my old drive shaft to the one I had bought. So...as much as I would love to spend $400 for a second set of new drive shafts as advised, I opted just to use the ones I had already bought. Thank you everyone for the help.
-
Like x 1
- List
-
-
Dave.0 Helix & RMW PoweredLifetime Supporter
Here you go, these have been in my and 2 friends cars a few years and are better built (CV) than OEM. We all have R53 S's and they are far from OEM power. :ihih::devil:
They fit correctly and will hold up. The next step up are real RACE axles from Jan at RMW. $$ but they are worth it.
$400.00
The Driveshaft Shop | Mini 2001-2006 Cooper S Basic Axle Level 0 - Mini - Import Axles
These are the new Level 0 performance axles. Using a chromoly center bar, a real billet inner cv with a larger oversized tripod and a new heat treat on our 1117 billet outer. The outer cv is custom made with a single arc design; this is a time/wear advantage over the factory dual arc design that tends to wear out prematurely. This is a superior axle for any stock replacement or swap. These axles are designed as an alternative to cheap re-builts or inferior aftermarket axles on the market today. It is a quality axle and better than any reman axle, it's just not what we would consider a real racing axle (sorry no warranty against breakage). If you don't see axles you need just email us, we can make anything. Price listed is for both left and right axles.
**Please Note: Does not include bearing carrier bracket for intermediate shaft (must be transferred from your OE axle)**
Part Number: RA1001L0/RA1002L0 -
So thank you for the link on the driveshafts, and bookmarked the site to get them next time, but wouldn't it seem that they aren't my current issue if I can rotate one of them manually and hear the gears turn in the trans?
And if i were to have improperly bled the slave cylinder, wouldn't I simply not be able to get it in gear at all, as the clutch wouldn't be freed up from its compression between the flywheel and pressure plate?
I'm loving working in this car. I grew up helping my dad rebuild a couple of old British cars ('64 Triumph TR4 and '68 Jaguar S Type). I just wish I could fix it. =) -
Dave.0 Helix & RMW PoweredLifetime Supporter
Here is a link to the RMW drive shafts.
http://www.motoringalliance.com/forums/sponsor-messages/21845-rmw-custom-driveshafts-group-buy.html#ixzz337nTYTXd -
However, do you think that it would be the drive shafts in this case?
I disconnected one from the wheel hub, and rotated it by hand, and I can hear the gears turning inside the transmission. They seem to be seated properly. While I understand the value of better quality drive shafts, I have some "lesser quality" but new ones already purchased and installed. If I toasted the trans, then that $400 will be needed in replacing it.
Page 1 of 2