1st Gen 100K+ Most liked posts in thread: Transmission Problems

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  1. Nathan

    Nathan Founder

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    #4 Nathan, Jun 27, 2014
    Yep. The pedal on the floor is a sign the clutch slave has given up the ghost.
     
  2. smokintires

    smokintires New Member

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    #9 smokintires, Jun 27, 2014
    I'm doing the labor lol, I just wanna know if there's a way to check the clutch without pulling the trans out
     
  3. Dave.0

    Dave.0 Helix & RMW Powered
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    #10 Dave.0, Jun 27, 2014
    Not that I am aware of without working Master and Slave cylinders. Its kind of like testing your lights with no battery. :rolleyes::lol:
    The cost of the two is around $100.00 and after you get them installed and bleed correctly you can then test your clutch. You will know if the clutch or throw out bearing is shot at that time.

    If you had no problems with your clutch before I would start with the cheaper "known to fail" parts first before I would open the trans and go at the clutch.

    It sure would suck to replace a clutch ($,$$$) and find out you only had a $50 slave cylinder fail.
     
  4. smokintires

    smokintires New Member

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    #11 smokintires, Jun 27, 2014
    There's no inspection plate or anything? I'll probably pull the starter and look at the flywheel if the cylinders don't fix it.
     
  5. smokintires

    smokintires New Member

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    #18 smokintires, Jun 30, 2014
    it took me a minute to realize what BFH was lol, but yes that method worked, just out of curiosity whats the little electrical connection that was mounted on the drivers side inner ball joint? im guessing its a sensor for the suspension or steering,,duh... but what is its purpose
     
  6. Crashton

    Crashton Club Coordinator

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    #19 Crashton, Jun 30, 2014
    You have a brake sensor wire down there & you have an wheel speed sensor down there. I'm guessing you are seeing the wheel speed sensor for the abs/traction nanny.
     
  7. Dave.0

    Dave.0 Helix & RMW Powered
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    #2 Dave.0, Jun 26, 2014
    Sounds like your slave cylinder is shot. Your master may also be going, but at your milage on a stock clutch I would replace all of those parts including the clutch. I would also have whoever does the job really take a good look at your fly wheel and if it looks worn replace it while doing the clutch.
     
  8. smokintires

    smokintires New Member

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    #3 smokintires, Jun 26, 2014
    the pedal not coming back is usually a sign of the slave cylinder right?
     
  9. smokintires

    smokintires New Member

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    #5 smokintires, Jun 27, 2014
    We'll the weird thing is it only stuck once, I can depress it and it comes back, I can't tell if it feels different then it usually does

    I did the good ol' pump the clutch a couple times then try and put it in gear and it didn't work.

    Fluid was at the correct level, I've never touched that resevoir but right under the cap there's some sort of clear diaphragm or something? Like I went to dip my finger in and it was solid. It's clear, what is this? Lol

    I took a look at the slave cylinder and it's a bit grimy, but it just looks like road debris and gunk, no drips or anything. I pushed the pedal to the floor and help it there, the cylinder was working, as in it moved the arm that goes into the trans. It had around 2" of travel, if that is normal.

    I also drained the fluid, beside little minute pieces from a few missed shifts, but it wasn't significant and didn't have huge chunks.

    So where do I go from now? I'll check the master cylinder, but is the slave okay as long as it is moving?
     
  10. Dave.0

    Dave.0 Helix & RMW Powered
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    #6 Dave.0, Jun 27, 2014
    Last edited: Jun 27, 2014
    At your mileage (109K) its a good bet the slave is shot and you may as well do the master while you are at it.

    Believe it or not I had the dealership do mine a few months ago at 80K because bleeding them can be a pain in the ass and the whole job for both only cost $300 including the parts.
     
  11. smokintires

    smokintires New Member

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    #7 smokintires, Jun 27, 2014
    How can I rule out the clutch
     
  12. Dave.0

    Dave.0 Helix & RMW Powered
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    #8 Dave.0, Jun 27, 2014
    The dealership will let you know when they fix the master and slave but it does not mean you have to let them install a new clutch. :idea:
     
  13. Rangerx

    Rangerx New Member

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    #12 Rangerx, Jun 27, 2014
    Dave.O I had a question dealing with the transmission but I have a automatic. Whenever I'm in lower speeds my engine tends to pull kind of like it's trying to jump back down to another gear is that just the CVT coming into play?
     
  14. Dave.0

    Dave.0 Helix & RMW Powered
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    #13 Dave.0, Jun 29, 2014
    Rangerx, I know nothing about CVT transmissions so sorry I can't help.

    Oh and you may want to start your own thread for more exposure to your CVT problem and because thread jacking is frowned upon by some people but not me.:eek::lol:
     
  15. smokintires

    smokintires New Member

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    #14 smokintires, Jun 29, 2014
    im about to drop the subframe, the only thing in my way are the outer ball joints. the pelican guide(Pelican Technical Article: MINI Cooper - Subframe Removal) show on figures 7& 8 to remove the two 13mm bolts holding it to the knuckle and pull it apart.

    So i did remove them but they haven't budged. its not really clear is it means you jest undo it or if i have to use a separator. so i removed the 18mm bolt on the bottom of the ball joint and started hammering the separator in, it seemed a lil tough, ive done ball joints on other cars before, so i decided to stop and ask on here before i really start using brute force

    any tips?

    P.S. the only tie rod separator i have is the long rod with a tapered fork on the end that you hammer into the joint, i dont have one of the bolt style ones
     
  16. Dave.0

    Dave.0 Helix & RMW Powered
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    #15 Dave.0, Jun 29, 2014
    ^^^ hit it really hard with a BFH and it will pop loose.
     
  17. smokintires

    smokintires New Member

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    #16 smokintires, Jun 29, 2014
    BFH?? lol
    and so im not gonna break it? just wanted some re assurance before i went swinging for the fence haha
     
  18. wmwny

    wmwny Well-Known Member

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    #17 wmwny, Jun 29, 2014
    What year is your MINI? Is it a Cooper or a Cooper S? The automatic didn't come into play until 2005 with the Cooper S. The Cooper started getting an automatic in 2007. Until then, the Cooper's version of an automatic was a CVT.
     
  19. smokintires

    smokintires New Member

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    #20 smokintires, Jun 30, 2014
    i removed the brake pad sensor, last time i did my brakes they were so far gone, literally no pad, and extremely messed up rotors, and the pad sensor light never came on soi wasnt gonna buy new sensors. it was mounted on the control arm i believe the abd is the smaller wire that goes to the top of the streering knuckle,so i guess its the wheel speed, i was just curious cause my guide for dropping the sub frame didnt mention it
     
  20. Crashton

    Crashton Club Coordinator

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    #21 Crashton, Jun 30, 2014
    Better safe than sorry. No sense buying a sensor if you don't need to.
     
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