Most liked posts in thread: TSW Engine Mount Prototype

So, that begs the question(s):
What would be the T rise from outside to an inch or two away from the mount? So, basically if it is 120F outside air temp, what is the temp at the mount on track day?

Just trying to understand the mount temp spec margin to worst case real-world conditions.

 

I've kinda wondered this myself since I can't really see any rhyme or reason to the stock ones failing except that maybe underhood temperature's heat the fluid to a point where it either becomes thin enough to leak or expands enough to damage the seal.

 

I've assumed that the temperature could get as high as 200F near the motor mount. Hopefully (for our plastic-filled engine compartments), that's a guess on the high side. The charge cooler does vomit really hot air all through the engine compartment, and so does the radiator.

 

No lull here. Come out to ECR on the 11th air-conditioning boy!!! :ihih:

Alan

 

I'm glad this mount is out. I just found my sister's engine mount has failed, so she will probably purchase one.

For those who have replaced the mount themselves, do you have any tips for the job that might not be obvious from reading the Bentley manual, say? Thanks.

 

I had to learn what a Reverse Torx size 12 is while laying under my car with everything else already off, make sure you have one on hand or that you can convince the local store to deliver.

 

Yeah - what Ken said ^
Been there, done that.

Otherwise, it's pretty straightforward. That reverse torx (aka "star socket") bolt may be REALLY tight and/or corroded, also...

But as long as you have a floor jack to put under the engine, and the right sockets and extensions, it's easy.

 

Bolt corrosion

I also found that long bolt to have some corrosion on the smoth part of the shaft. If you find any corrosion optimally you should just change the bolt, but in a pinch you could just clean it up and lube it or seal it with an etch primer. etc and reuse like I did.

 

OK, tips noted. Thanks, guys!

 

The bolt in question is a single use, torque-to-yield bolt. Use a new bolt for the install; tighten to 41 ft-lb and a torque angle of 90 degrees. Drive the front up on ramps, remove the hydraulic damper top nut, raise the engine enough to relieve pressure on the damper, remove the bracket from the block, remove the E12 bolt, and remove the pitch bolt from the body. A how-to for the early model [ame=http://www.lonestarminiclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=526]Engine Suspension Replacement - Lone Star Mini Club Forums[/ame] some of the photos are similar to the later model procedure.

 

Excellent. Thanks!

 

Units are in production... Finally. We expect to receive the first shipment at the end of next week. We'll hold on to them for a few days for final curing (which takes 5-6 days for what we spec'd), but should start shipping a week from Monday.

With Dr. Mike's design, the engine damper kits we sell are no longer necessary - guess we'll kill that business! Oh well - no more oil puke to clean up and no more replacing a crappy mount with another crappy mount!

 

Anxiously awaiting for the new mount from you guys and RMW's new crank pulley. My engine rebuild should be about complete.

 

Gonna miss that one. I'll be in San Diego for a couple of weeks and although I'll be missing my MINI I won't miss the heat. July DEs here can be brutal :crazy:

 

I am pleased to report that I was able to snag one of these mounts at our recent DIY day here in Dallas, and it really looks like TSW has nailed the design.

Now can anyone tell me how I can clean up the old nasty hydraulic gunk that my former mount excreted into my engine bay!

 

Isopropyl Alcohol works well.

 

K1 Kerosene also works nicely.

 

Have you considered doing the urethane in different colors? Just a thought...

 

Yeah, gimme red. It is the fastest color afterall.

 

You can have any color you want....

As long as it's black.