The thing is they ran my ECU/EWS on a R50 they had in the shop. The engine ran fine. They stop/started the engine several times, they sent me a video because like you I had doubts about their abilities. So I'm sure the ECU is ok.
Here's what i'm thinking which is not much but anyways:
The Tmap is showing less airflow than actual at that rpm range. The mixture gets to lean and that lean mixture is the actual cause of the misfire. Vacuum leak in the intake might be the reason for all of it.
The lack of voltage on pin 4 could distort the way the ECM interprets the sensor, give the false airflow reading and be the reason for all that mess as well.
Whatever the reason you must be getting close, man.
I've read a ton of stuff on Tmaps for different cars today and they all say I should have an input of 5V and an output of 1.2 V at idle and 4 V at full throttle or 4v ignition on/engine off. I get nothing which says the Tmap is bad but seeing as this is the 4th Tmap I doubt the sensor is the issue or the ECU. Has to be the wiring, I suppose there is a chance the harness I fitted is bad too.
haha the test is at idle and 3000rpm .....booo hoooo The more I read about the Tmap the more I think there is something wrong in the intake area. I'm off down there tomorrow so another 3 weeks of fun and games.
Changed the throttle body.....that didn't do it. The strange thing is everything I do something fuel related I use kitchen paper towels to catch the fuel and every time the fuel comes out with crap in it. I fitted a new filter so surely the filter is doing nothing. This problem started with bad fuel so maybe something is not right in the tank? Maybe the roll last year damaged something? I'm pretty confident all is well with the engine and sensors so I shall look again at the fuel tank/filter and pump.
Something I noticed yesterday when I had the fuel pressure gauge hooked up is the pressure sometimes goes up and down as does the engine RPM
I'm not sure what's the legal system in your neck of the woods like but i'm sure you could file a claim with some sort of small claim court. Obviously they have slick ass layers who can draft papers but you seem to have facts on your side. Judges like facts and evidence.
Just my two cents.
And don't shoot the Cooper, you may end up trading it in for a Subaru someday. (with the tmap off)
I thought I had the issue yesterday. After I had finished swapping the throw out bearing I thought about what happened when I pulled off the V belt. The engine ran but the popping thorough the exhaust increased and fault still happened. Putting on a 5mm longer V belt decreased the fault RPM range to 3000-3900 which is strange because how can the longer V change anything?
Anyway I was thinking voltage is playing a role here: Being a rally car we have 2 battery cut off switches. One outside and one inside. The one inside has the cable from the alternator connected to the Battery side pole so when you knock off the power the alternator puts power the battery and does not get damaged and the engine stops. What I found yesterday was the cut switch melted, the alternator cable was loose and just by touching it the power cut out.
So with the switch melted something is getting very hot. The switch has been in there since 2012, so has the alternator. The power source that changed is the battery, which is an Optima R34 red top fitted a month before the rally. Also sometimes after being in the States for 2 weeks I find the battery low on power when I return which I don't remember being the case with the old battery.
I think 2 things happened the day before the rally. 1/ the 4 hour high RPM journey most likely fried the switch. 2/ the bad fuel caused the terrible misfire.
I believe the fuel related issues are fixed because on the day of the rally I could not drive the Mini which is not the case now.
With the battery being changed I ruled that out as faulty but it is quite possible the battery is draining the power causing the alternator to work extra hard, I say that because the alternator gets hot enough to fry eggs on, the cable is hot too!
The battery is under warranty and I can get my alternator rebuilt when I return to the States on Saturday. this will be my next action.
Oh I did the hand on exhaust test and I didn't feel any back pressure due to sticking valves.
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