Thanks me too! There is the "day of the dead" I hope today will be the " day of the dead misfire"
The weekend saw a very polished Mini and the exhaust rattle fixed.
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RallyMini370 Well-Known Member
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You gotta stick with what you know for sure: It's fine (-ish) with the tmap disconnected.
If it was me i'd disconnect the tmap and take it for a spin. Give it a good italian tune-up. Maybe some gunk from that bad gas is messing with the valves and redlining it for a while will burn it off. At the very least you'll enjoy it.-
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RallyMini370 Well-Known Member
I don't see much happening this year due to I didn't buy anything to take down. I'm going to do the Tmap plug off drive and hopefully buy a cheap car cover from job lots.
Lucky I took the Mini to the tech inspection in July. If not I would been faced with a huge fine and no chance to get the annual tax! Oh well I've until July 2016 to fix it!-
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RallyMini370 Well-Known Member
I hooked up the diagnostic software with the Tmap plug off and on.
With the plug off the ignition timing stays consistent at around -5 to -7 at idle and at 3000rpm is around +20.
With the plug on the intake pressure is around 3.5 to 4.5 psi and the timing is fluctuating from -10 to +12 then when I get to the magical 3000rpm the pressure drops to 3psi and the timing hits +28 pops and then goes on 3 cylinders.
Has to be some air leak of throttle body issue. That's my next check.-
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BlimeyCabrio Oscar Goldman of MINIsLifetime Supporter
- May 4, 2009
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The fuel should ALWAYS be clean, coming out of the line. That problem be as simple as bad or improperly fitted O-ring on the fuel filter canister. I don't think that's why you're having the specific problem... But it's "a problem"
Your issues remind me of a weird stumble/flat spot around 3500 RPM I chased for three years before fixing it. Ended up being a bad tune/map. I originally loaded an MTH canned tune on the car, then a couple years later had Jan tune it. Something about the combination of those tunes layered in the same ECU maps broke. Was effectively a bug in the tune. Finally got fixed when Jan completely cleared out the maps and copied in new base maps from a stock file, then reapplied his tuning. That was a really frustrating gremlin. I replaced both MAP sensors, O2 sensor, throttle body, other stuff while chasing it.-
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RallyMini370 Well-Known Member
no chance with total, they sent a large document explaining their fuel was good and I had fabricated the whole to financial gain.
I took off the filter because I like the pain of working on the Mini every night! The filter was dirty but more dirty on the inside! Strange because the fuel travels from the outside in. All the O rings were good but I did notice the paper filter was looking worn on the edges, I suppose water in the fuel is not a good mix for a paper filter? Anyway I'll get a new one for next year. A nice prezzy from Santa..LOL
I was trying to figure out how the inside gets dirty? There is the out pipe on the top and another pipe at the bottom that goes to the siphon jet pump. I'm not sure how that works but it might but faulty allowing fuel in? Hell let's buy everything new!-
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RallyMini370 Well-Known Member
seeing as it rains a lot in CR I think rain deer would be better LOL Bought a pulley today. So I'll replace the pulley, belt and alternator which should fix any vibration.
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RallyMini370 Well-Known Member
I'm back on it for 2016! Swapped the crank pulley and alternator yesterday. Started the engine, got up to the magic 3000rpm and once again the fault appeared! but hold on, it took longer for the fault to happen and now the fault range has reduced to 3000-3600rpm. Also now the error code is P0304 and not P0300. P0300 is multi-cylinder, P0304 is cylinder 4 , I confirmed that by removing the plug leads.
So I swapped the leads as 1 and 4 fire together. same issue. I swapped the plugs but still the same issue. Tonight I'm going to swap the injectors from 3 to 4.-
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RallyMini370 Well-Known Member
I thought about it but then what would I do with my spare time?? Anyway I swapped the injectors around last night but #4 still had the error code. I did some testing and found code P0304 happened going up to 3000rpm and code P0300 happens when coming down from 4000rpm to 3500. The fault is now just now from 3000 to 3500. At this range I hear a lot of popping through the exhaust, so I put my stick on the throttle keeping the RPM just below 3000 then put my hand over the tail pipe. I could feel suck every pop so maybe a I have sticking valve on #4? A job for the weekend.
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I thought sticking valve /valves had been discussed and checked but this has gone on for so long I tend to forget. The good news is that if'n this is the fix you're gonna have an almost new vehicle due to all the other things you have repaired. Also with all the knowledge you have attained along the way you will no longer be just a Midlands 5 speed wizard but an R50 wizard.
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RallyMini370 Well-Known Member
Ah Yes I thought about that but R50's are not common here. Also there is the small detail of the roll cage etc. I imported this Mini as a 2 seater so getting another Mini from here would give me issues doing the technical test.
Anyway I'm going to fix it one day and look back and laugh!-
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RallyMini370 Well-Known Member
Thanks, I love a good puzzle! I did some lunchtime reading: 2 cylinders misfiring together could mean the head gasket or a rare case of the camshaft snapped in the middle bearing but surely both of these issues would give me issues through the whole RPM range......worth a check on a summers night, might even light a candle to make it more romantic....LOL
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RallyMini370 Well-Known Member
Thanks . Now I'm sorted.....problem is I now have too much time to kill.
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RallyMini370 Well-Known Member
Over the weekend I got the Bentley manual out and went through the sensors to check the voltage etc. I also swapped the new crank sensor back. All checked out good so I checked the fault issue again and found the range now had narrowed to 3200 to 3500 and took about a minute or so to kick in. Then I decided to reset the system several times as I read an interesting article on Friday that even though you have changed parts to resolve an issue the ECU memory still retains the error and after a reset the ECU needs to learn new parameters based on speed, driving style etc. Seeing as the Mini never moves an inch it was time to wash the body work and take the Mini for a good trash!
I got ready to go for a drive when the engine at idle went to 2 cylinders and a strong smell of fuel. I pulled the plug leads to find 3 and 4 not running. I pulled out the plugs to find #3 wet with fuel which was strange. Anyway after some checking I found #3 injector stuck open dumping fuel out with no control. I spun the cylinders to blow out the fuel, fitted another injector(I have plenty!) then all was well.
Then I did some blasts around the local roads with the locals thinking there was a race going on! I did plenty of driving at 3000 to 3500RPM in 3rd, 4th up hill/down hill and no fault. I drove to work this morning. Nothing. Drove like I stole it. nothing.
It's early days yet and time will tell if all is well. I have the new Crank sensor and key coming Thursday which should improve the issue.
Good to be back on the road!-
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RallyMini370 Well-Known Member
ah but changing the pulley helped as did the Alternator and V belt. Not that I want to put them back on the prove they were part of the issue.
anyway. Misfire? what misfire......I don't remember that. LOL-
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Steve AdministratorStaff Member Articles Moderator
I'm clearly not helping but figure a bump couldn't hurt.
You might also try this thing: MINI Engine Management Overview
I don't expect it to help either, to tell the truth. I found it when someone else asked about limp/safe mode but it was just too confusing for me to get anything out of it. Your mileage may vary.
Good luck.-
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