Yes it's looking that way! This Mini is cruel, last night I thought I'd cracked the problem and then "bang" the problem is back. I do a lot of searches on this issue and some dude down under had a similar problem with his Nissan 300ZX twin Turbo. OMG he had 6 cylinders worth of parts, he went though more then me to find the issue, which was a faulty new 02 sensor!
Hahaha funny. One thing is I know how to remove the gearbox! Changed the throw out bearing Now I'm changing all the old parts back to the newer parts. Also maybe I have found the issue. Stay tuned
GAAAAAHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!! :mad2: There, Chris, I said it for you! Now sit down and guzzle some cervezas frias! Tomorrow is another day....
Ah yes I'll be sinking a few of them! I thought I had the issue yesterday. After I had finished swapping the throw out bearing I thought about what happened when I pulled off the V belt. The engine ran but the popping thorough the exhaust increased and fault still happened. Putting on a 5mm longer V belt decreased the fault RPM range to 3000-3900 which is strange because how can the longer V change anything? Anyway I was thinking voltage is playing a role here: Being a rally car we have 2 battery cut off switches. One outside and one inside. The one inside has the cable from the alternator connected to the Battery side pole so when you knock off the power the alternator puts power the battery and does not get damaged and the engine stops. What I found yesterday was the cut switch melted, the alternator cable was loose and just by touching it the power cut out. So with the switch melted something is getting very hot. The switch has been in there since 2012, so has the alternator. The power source that changed is the battery, which is an Optima R34 red top fitted a month before the rally. Also sometimes after being in the States for 2 weeks I find the battery low on power when I return which I don't remember being the case with the old battery. I think 2 things happened the day before the rally. 1/ the 4 hour high RPM journey most likely fried the switch. 2/ the bad fuel caused the terrible misfire. I believe the fuel related issues are fixed because on the day of the rally I could not drive the Mini which is not the case now. With the battery being changed I ruled that out as faulty but it is quite possible the battery is draining the power causing the alternator to work extra hard, I say that because the alternator gets hot enough to fry eggs on, the cable is hot too! The battery is under warranty and I can get my alternator rebuilt when I return to the States on Saturday. this will be my next action. Oh I did the hand on exhaust test and I didn't feel any back pressure due to sticking valves.
Just checked, I fitted the new battery on July the 18th and the rally was on July 25th. That looks like a bit of a coincidence......
Your battery may have been damaged during your Flying Wallenda's act. That thing took quite a hammering. That's all I've got. Good luck Chris.
Good point Crashton but I changed the battery this year. I have been thinking the roll could have cause some wiring issues......let's hope the battery is at fault.
It would be but the supplier of the battery is not playing ball. So I might have the borrow one to test the theory.
Ah no, I'm back in the US. I forgot to let you know the battery supplier is going to pick up the battery, test it and if it is faulty they will replace it. Turns out the manager is a rally driver so I'm covered. Also while I'm in the US I'm getting a knock sensor, alternator and battery cut off switch. Plus some research over the holidays into voltage induced misfires. Another tool I'm buying is a valve spring remover with the head in place. The idea is to check for sticky valves. The above should pretty much cover the issue.......fingers crossed. Happy Holidays to all.....2016 will be good!