LOL, no. I was actually sitting at a red light when I took the pic. Though when I initially saw the brake indicator on, I had to check and make sure. Didn't want a repeat of what happened to my 97 Civic. Damn ebrake line froze one evening while I was at the gym, and I couldn't get it to thaw. So I drove about 50 miles with the firmly engaged. Never had rear brakes on that car again. I just didn't care about that damn civic. Only good thing about it was the 40 mpg.
When I had the loose sensor the alert would appear and go away randomly, looked just like that photo.
I will check that when I get home and can throw the jack under the car and I'm not wearing dress clothes for work, lol.
Well, it came back on, only yellow this time. Went away pretty quickly. I jacked it up and took a good close look behind both wheels and nothing seemed loose or anything, it all looked good. Unless I wasn't looking at the right thing.
Oh WTF is it now???? I tried to reset the code per the instructions provided earlier in the thread, and it didn't work. Any thoughts? And no, the parking brake is not on.
I've been going through a similar sequence (similar mileage). Due to some extenuating circumstances, it was causing me a lot of frustration (I took the car in for an oil/filter change and brake fluid flush, was told brakes were good... when I picked it up the odo said 9000 miles til next service, which it then counted down in 800 miles or so). Then the light. Final explanation from dealer: Two stage brake wear sensor. 'Car On Lift' means you'll probably need service soon. The second pictogram means you've triggered (worn through) the bws switch. Or something like that.
It's crazy how smart these cars are. I have a 1st gen and it came with a slightly loose e-brake handle so sometimes my brake light would come on and I would just have to touch the e-brake handle and it would go away. Just throwing it out there, I'm sure it's not a common issue, just a personality trait this one has.
Dang, I feared it might be the brakes. So I guess Ill add brakes to the vacuum pump that Im going to need to replace soon. Might as well do the front pads if I'm doing the rear.
Brakes are an easy DIY as is that vacuum pump. I'd do that pump first since it can frag your engine. :yesnod:
I know they are both easy, not worried about that part as if its something complicated, I have a former F-18 mechanic that helps me out, lol. Its just the cash for the parts that I have to worry about. I think I have it in the budget to get the pump after my next paycheck, or I could ask for it for my bday, lol.
I'd use my cc & do it now, but that is just me. Happy B Day! I think you need a mechanic that works on French Mirage fighters. :wink:
I'll have to ask him if he ever has. He worked on a lot of planes while he was in the service since he was on a base instead of a ship. Anyone know anything about the Akebono pads? I saw somewhere that Dave.0 was talking about them, but I cant find if they still have room for the sensors, anyone else have some exp with these?
Not even sure if this is still a relevant thread but based on your original post I think I had the same issue. You may want to check all four corners to see if one of your brake sensors were severed. I just bought my mini and on the way home, I heard a noise, and the same lights appeared. Ended up being a severed sensor on the lf. The dealership I bought the car from replaced the sensor so I am not sure of the cost, but to re flash the computer at Mini to turn the light off was 95 dollars.
There are only two brake sensors on the MINI, Left Front and Right Rear. Resetting the indicator takes about one minute, and you could have done in your driveway. I understand dealers needing to charge a minimum fee, but that doesn't mean you need to take it to them. [ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aKnLvitsXzs"]How to Reset a Brake Warning Light for R56 MINI - YouTube[/ame]
Don't change the sensors just cut off the end, strip the wire back and tie the wires together. Replace the pads and motor down the road. Without the sensor you just need to keep an eye on your pads when they are getting low and forget the silly sensor light. A good rule of thumb is: If the distance of the pad to the rotor is less then the thickness of pad backing plate you need to replace your pads.