Heat is really the main issue with the MINI. Run "water wetter by Redline" or "40 below by Problend" in the radiator. We use the Porblend because its not alcohol based and doesnt evaporate over time like the Redline. Also our oil cooler works very well for keeping the oil temp down - Sneed Speed MINI Cooper S Oil Cooler Kit R53
The ATI damper is a great choice and you wont have any problems with it. We keep the correct belt in stock for it MINI Drive Belt R53 - Sneed Speed Shop Dont use the gator back belt because you'll break it on track. Work fine on the street though
Make sure you have changed your fuel filter too. It has a direct effect on AFR and on track this is very important. We keep them in stock too.
We have found the DT tensioner stop to be the best.
Are you using the stock clutch and flywheel? The flywheels fail on the dual mass ring. We see this alot, the failure will acure on the downshift and then bend at least some of the valves. It looks and sounds like a money shift but its not. If you have budget replace the flywheel with a lightweight one. I know its a big upgrade though
Have you replaced your front control arm bushings? You need too, the stock ones are too soft for track use. We use Super Pro. That last one is not RPM related but it gets over looked until a failure.
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Sneedspeed New Member
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Crashton Club Coordinator
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Thanks hadn't considered plug wires. Current mini only has 45k so I haven't replaced them yet, will do the same as I do with the s-belt and keep the most recent swapped out set in the track bag.
Oh my, I was going to add oil temp and pressure gauges over the winter as I only have a scangauge right now (set to boost, water temp, iat, and ignition adv) might just go ahead and add and oil cooler at the same time if you are seeing temps that high on a relatively cool day, some of my events are over 100F in the peak of the summer.
Keeping up with the R53 is a lot more work then my R50 was, although it is massively faster so I guess that makes sense haha. Probably should have started this thread when I made the jump to the S...-
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I would think the LeMons people don't want you to use anything besides water in the rad because the beneficent of friction for other product such as Water Wetter and Antifreeze is much greater than just water. Harder to clean after a spill on track when 2 vehicles experience a racing incident too.
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Sneedspeed New Member
Ben we have tested the bumper beam with the oil cooler installed, not on purpose. Our black car was totaled in an on road crash. It was hit in the back by a truck and then hit a rx8. Our Mini pushed the Rx8s trunk to the B pillar but our bumper beam was fine. It bent but didn't break. This car had one of the extra large coolers on it so the beam was cut more than you would need to cut for the standard kit. Everyone in the crash was ok and we fixed the Mini...again lol. It's back on track and the road now.
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you need a fluid damper like PRW, they will not come apart. The factory pulley will not last at high rpm. We had one fail (put on before race at daytona) 15min before finish while passing for the lead. Cost us the win. The pulley lasted 2hrs 15min...... plus the qualifying.....
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Thanks for the info, Jan, looks like high rpm can indeed cause early failure then. I will definitely not be putting a factory part back on. Any other oem parts that you have seen fail due to track conditions?
k-huevo, Thanks for pointing that out!!! I paraphrased a bit as the post was getting too long, the power steering cut out after not instantly (i did have the car 'on' but motor not while limping back around to the pits, and being pulled to the local gas station) could the battery deplete in less then 3 miles due to a non-pulley connected alternator? -
Crashton Club Coordinator
3 miles doesn't sound quite right to drain a battery, When my alternator went FUBAR last week I got about 35 miles out of the battery before my power steering went dead. The car died shortly after.
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Hmmm... thanks crashton, looks like i will have to do some more investigating and $$$ spending
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Very good point, especially as I plan to move the mini to r-comps next year which will increase the Gs further, added that to the list.
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Thanks for the link! much cheaper than a new engine lol
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countryboyshane New Member
Think about buying a trailer and a tow vehicle for you high RPM excursions. You'll never have to worry about driving your car home again. My former NHRA junkie dad jokes about this all the time, but it's so true the more you get into driving your car at the track :biggrin5:
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Haha yeah that would be useful, unfortunately i don't have a good place to park a trailer and that is a bit out of budget for this year lol
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BThayer23 Well-Known Member
Definitely check the crank seal while you have the pulley off. Mine was leaking around 100k miles.
Plug wires can give out at the track - consider keeping spares, or don't throw out your old ones. Also, my oil temp gauge has been illuminating - the MINI runs about 280*F on a 75*F day. -
100% on the money about the OEM Dampener!! Seems the oil pump and the Harmonic vibration at high revs just dont get along.
I lost my pump only recently.. (6000 revs @ 146 mph). Thumper Performance is NOW selling the 'fluid damper' for the r50 and the r53. Should have all the pricing and info posted on my site in a week or two.
I will definitely get the word out on high rev and the oil pump
Hope this helps.................................
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Hi Sneedspeed,
I had heard mixed reviews on the redline stuff and in the lemons races i particpate in they mandate only water in the rad, so i never really gave that a thought... might be worth revisiting, as i am by no means a engine pro.
Fancy new damper and brand new oem jcw belt are on and the car is running again
Did find your guy's oil cooler, added to the list
Good point on the fuel filter, how often do you guys change it on track cars every (insert number here) event, I am guessing earlier then the standard recommendation lol.
I thought the DT one was the best too but after have 2 break (one i noticed before the belt went while just checking the car over), decided a change might be worth a try.
I do have the stock clutch and flywheel, was planning on a giken + lsd this winter but based on the other things people have suggested it might have to wait a bit.
I did have the front control arm bushing go on my r50, called it an active toe upgrade :crazy: I haven't seen the super pro ones, will take a look on google, most of the aftermarket ones look like them don't have the same movement profile which put me off, so have been swappin in new OEM ones.
Hi Thumper, is there much you can do about the oil pump, for example weld the pump nut on like on the e46 3-series motors? Or is maybe it is driven by stravation in high later loads and a baffle system would help? Or just proactive replacement, anything to look for when i have it apart for the baffle install? sorry for all the questions lol but this site has much more knowledge than me!
Here is my current list of projects in order of priority could you guys let me know if something is out of order or still missing?
ALTA Tensioner Stop
RMW Oil Pan Baffle / Pickup
Sneedspeed Oil Cooler
OEM Fuel Filter
Rad Flush, with fancy fluid?
Cravenspeed Oil Pressure/Temp Gauge Package
OS Giken LSD
OS Giken Flywheel & Clutch
Vibratechnics or TSW Motor Mount
Something with the Intercooler (iAT gets pretty absurd in the summer)
On a trip starting today, so my response will be delayed
Thanks for the help everyone, i love it when a corner workers says "i had no idea a mini could do that!!!" less impressive when i end up broken in the paddock :blush2: -
I agree with Nate on the use of water in cooling.. Antifreeze or additives are not an easy clean up. I think there are cooling substitutes on the market for tracks. Check the rules for approved liquids. Dont forget to look into circle track rules for suggestions , cool??
I am going to bump up the relief spring pressure on the pump. It will allow more oil pressure at higher rpm levels. It also will make more oil temp heat. Thus the 'oil cooler'.
Until some one makes a 'high-volume' pump, higher pressure is what I am doing.
TOO many issues with the OEM Dampener... look into a good SFI unit to help with high rpm harmonic vibration. Racing guys.. RMW and Waymotor works have a few good units for sale.
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BThayer23 Well-Known Member
Stick with OEM coolant, the anti corrosion elements are useful. And if you forget to change the coolant before winter, you won't suffer a cracked block on the first cold morning.
I have a Sneedspeed Oil Cooler sitting in my garage, but I've been reluctant to mount it because it requires you to cut into the bumper support - the large aluminum beam that protects the car in a crash. It also cuts down on the room for the passenger-side brake duct.
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