You guys are exactly right on the water rules Just slipped my mind i use oem fluid in the mini and water in the lemons car 87 monte carlo I did use a ati damper but an oem belt sorry if that was vague Typing on my phone so have to wait till i get back to have a proper read
Also will check with the local tracks on fluid rules Hmm might have to semi custom something oil cooler wise plenty of time to think on the plane
Ben we have tested the bumper beam with the oil cooler installed, not on purpose. Our black car was totaled in an on road crash. It was hit in the back by a truck and then hit a rx8. Our Mini pushed the Rx8s trunk to the B pillar but our bumper beam was fine. It bent but didn't break. This car had one of the extra large coolers on it so the beam was cut more than you would need to cut for the standard kit. Everyone in the crash was ok and we fixed the Mini...again lol. It's back on track and the road now.
btw now i have oil temp and pressure gauges + a rmw baffle in the pan and went to the track last weekend..... and now i have first hand data of my temp getting to 250 on a regular basis on a 50F march weekend, can't imagine what the summer events will do really want to cage it and get some proper harnesses in but more cooling on the oil and brakes also appears to be needed based on how the event went this weekend.... and as i posted in my other thread (http://www.motoringalliance.com/forums/cooper-s/17180-intercooler-bits-crazy.html#axzz2NNhwSFVZ) some bolts disappeared over winter, maybe the powerflex and vibratechnic motormounts shook them out some how due to extra vibration lol? also had something else strange happen, first lap hitting the gas out of turn 1 on Saturday ses light came on and lost power, threw a couple codes but restarting the car cleared them all. Rest of Saturday was fine. Sunday driving to the track was fine, but when i started it and went out for the first session got a code P0108 - overboost, check the gauge and it saying 19psi at idle which is quite nuts. When lapping the gauge would act normal and max out at the normal ~15psi but at idle would be back at 19 again and freak the ecu out. It didn't seem like the boost was any different than normal so i just continued and the car seemed fine. It does disable dsc when that code comes up which i don't really mind (one less thing to remember) but the now continuous code and check engine light i would prefer to not have... nobody said this was a cheap hobby..... any ideas let me know, i am trying to sort out at least the P0108 and missing intercooler bits before the next event in april
Check your pressure side map sensor. That's the one that reads boost, in the intake. It sounds like its bad.
Forgot to post back in this thread, it was indeed the MAP sensor so that was easy, thanks for the help! Had 2 more events and the car continues to work great and go fast. Taking a serious look at proper seats with hans and at least partial cage as cornering speeds are getting higher and braking points later.... if nothing else breaks first i will also be looking to fit a oil cooler, brake ducts (as both temps are a bit higher than ideal) and depending on what is left money wise some kind of intercooler upgrade i also borrowed a aim solo lap timer device and learned how dramatically usefully that is... so now i want data in my car all the time hahaha every time i think i am close to done with upgrades i learn something new
Did you remove or replace the MAP sensor? As for the rest of your post, it could have been written by me five years ago. Lol. Do you want me to tell you how the story ends? I put in Cobra race seats, a half cage and 6-pt harnesses and got a Hans. It wasn't my smartest move. The car will have almost no resale value and not be very comfortable on the street. When you the decide to make it a track-only car, you remove the half cage because it isn't built tight to the roof (now that the headliner is removed). I stripped my car to a shell and started a race car build. Again, not one of my better moves. My smart move was buying Onasled's built race car! I hear you on data acquisition. I just added a GPS module to my AiM MXL. It is a powerful tool. I, too, enjoy passing expensive hardware.....only they are now 996 GT3 Cup cars. Beaner
I did remove it at first but then realized it prevented my scangauge from measuring boost properly, not necessary I know.... but I like my gauges lol you aren't the only person with that type tale that I have spoken too, I was actually looking closely at a SSM miata and spec e30 that were for sale at the track for about what the changes to the mini will cost me :-/ I am in the awkward situation of no tow vehicle or trailer and living in an apartment now so I need to be able to drive to and from events so I can’t swing a full out race car right now I am lucky enough to have a daily driver in addition to the track mini so the only street driving it sees are to/from events or the shop. i really want to stick with the mini as I have driven other cars and haven’t liked them as much as the mini. I was actually following both onalsed and randy webb’s builds and one of my buddies drove in the short lived us mini challenge series…. I would have loved to be in the position to pick up a well built track mini but those are much rarer than miatas, e30, 944 etc and even rarer would be one that I could legally register for the drive to and from the track as it won’t be a street driver I will be taking most of the interior out for the cage, but leaving the 3 points in so I can still title and register etc, definitely haven’t made a final decision though, if only I had a 4 car garage and truck/trailer… :-/ I need a house sponsor lol!