Well, I got Carbotech AX6 installed on the car now. Gonna use them for street and track. I guess I am lazy. Will be testing their track capability next month.
Of course I have a video of under braking some Lotuses (Loti?) and others at the local track on OEM pads. But then again a few years ago I was under braking Mini's with BBKs while behind a wheel of a rental Mustang at Cal Speedway.
In the end the NUT behind the wheel has to do his job.![]()
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goaljnky New Member
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leicaguy New Member
So, after seeing a Mustang drive straight off turn 3 into a tire wall at VIR from brake fade I started using track pads. I drive home (100 miles) with them and usually don't remove them until the following weekend. Noisy but otherwise not a problem.
But in the end it's as you say. Different strokes, it's all good as long as you and your car leave the track safe and happy. -
ScottinBend Space CowboySupporting Member
And who says you have to improve the parts to have a better experience? As long as you don't drive beyond the limits of the car/parts you have, who says that is not a great experience? I know I don't need to drive 10/10ths to have fun. -
BThayer23 Well-Known Member
I have no issue with running R53-JCW or R56 calipers on the track - the massive pad size makes up for the heavy, heat-retaining cast iron construction and single piston design. However, you're not just leaving speed on the table, you're leaving safety on the table. Heads, cams, wings, and twincharging systems will all make you go faster and lower your lap times; none will help you avoid the 911 spinning in the big hairpin after the straightaway. Why wouldn't you make a relatively small investment in time and money to ensure that your equipment is working well within its performance envelope? Sure, you can make the stock pads work on the track, but when you whoa the car down from 115 mph to 55 mph to make the turn, how much room do you have left to make an emergency maneuver?
Street pads belong on the street; track pads belong on the track. Don't bring a knife to a gun fight. -
goaljnky New Member
Alright, fellas.
We all have our opinions. Some of you think I am wrong, stupid, or slow. The fact remains that I have ran OEM pads for the past few years with the car doing twice as many sessions with my wife co-driving the events thus leaving less time for the brake components to cool down. I run advanced groups and I have never had a brake problem while turning consistent lap times in the middle of a pack against higher horsepower and better prepped cars. I assure you that I have also experienced every track eventuality as the rest of you.
I have also now (since I can't get the dealer to pay for my brakes) moved to a different pad. If I find that it works better for me, I will certainly post about that.
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And now I get to put my moderator hat on. I usually let threads wonder and head where they might to further a conversation. But I feel by now we have moved way too far off my original post. If you guys want to continue this conversation, please start another thread.
Thank you. -
Did you ever find out what that stuff was, how hard it is and was it hard to remove ?
I'm also interested in, if it was heavy, how it would effect the balance of the rotor. This may be getting picky but I've balanced rotors on race cars in the past.
Mark -
goaljnky New Member
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lotsie Club Coordinator
I think it looks like sludge from brake dust/road grim/track crap, that got wet, ran down and slow baked from non rotating hot brake parts:smilewinkgrin:
Mark -
Crashton Club Coordinator
Back on topic. Whatever that is on your rotor isn't realy going to effect the balance. It is so close to the center of the rotating mass. -
BThayer23 Well-Known Member
Agree to suspend disbelief and disagree.
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Maybe try breaking out the Dremel and sanding wheel. Whatever's on there has got to be softer than steel.
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