Most liked posts in thread: What did you do with your MINI today?

You CANNOT clear a P2096 code with any reader. It is a hard fact code stored in the ECU for a bad O2 sensor.

After you correct the issue you have to hook up a dealership tool or a BAV tech cable with a laptop. You have to scan the car, clear all hard stored codes and reset the adaptives.

Link to BavTech tool below and it only works on Windows machines , Not Apple products.

Then and only then will the feared P2096 go away. I know these steps very well because I have done this several times and have the BAV Tech software on a laptop and have the cable.


P.S. Your injectors are fine that’s not what the code is for. It’s your second O2 sensor. Only but OEM O2 sensors.

BAV tech cable you need.

http://www.bavariantechnic.com/buy.aspx

Basic Kit - Single Vehicle

The Basic cable can be used on a single BMW or Mini vehicle only and does not include a storage case. This option cannot be expanded to support more than one car or upgraded to Enthusiast or Professional. As with all of our kits, the software and software updates are included.
$179

 

These look promising.....
https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Adaptor-Slotted-Polyurethane-Protector/dp/B00XK4NZNW/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_263_lp_img_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=VZRTMJYK6EKMZTV8ATAX
https://www.amazon.com/Metal-Mini-Cooper-Floor-Adapter/dp/B007JCSDWO

 

Yes ain't that wonderful! Unbolt the tank & move it out of the way. On a justa there is no turbo in the way. Easy change, but lots less power.

 

The MINI had a day off while I drove Ferrari around North Texas today. It was a little chilly today for top down driving, but tomorrow is looking very nice.

CD

 

OK, I am a gadget nut. I bought valve stem caps that show the inflation of the tire. I installed them yesterday. I have 2 flat tires today. They leak ...

 

Something like this.......
https://smile.amazon.com/Vesafe-Monitoring-Real-time-CL-201-Temperature/dp/B01LA8LL12/ref=sr_1_22?ie=UTF8&qid=1522937296&sr=8-22&keywords=tire+pressure+caps

 

Did a 2 step (yellow then white Rupes pads) buff and polish on the hood yesterday then followed up with a sealant (applied with a Chemical Bro's finishing pad). Also found out you can polish vinyl hood stripes and make them look new again, minus all the rock chips up front Will be coating the whole car with a nice wax after I do the same buff, polish, and sealant process just don't have a ton of time to tackle the car as a whole between now and the Dragon to do so it'll be done one side at a time.

 

Haha. I can honestly say that I have been driving, then hear something hit my undercarriage and see a wrench in my rear view mirror. It's a bad habit i have. Wife complains that i end up buying tool sets, because i dont have complete ones.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

Finished up polishing and sealing the whole car. Got the bumpers and driver side waxed, hoping to finish up tomorrow. Then another attempt at the belt line as well.

 

Got the new belt line cover on and waxed the roof Slowly chipping away at my MOTD to do list.

 

Drove to work. Seems like all I ever get to do with her. I'm thinking about doing some detailing this weekend if I don't get suck in the office

 

Ran my 2009 Clubby up to the tire store, I've had a VERY slow leak (5lbs a month) in the left front for a while now, since I'm headed to Tenn. next week I decided to get it fixed, sure enough they found a small nail in it.

 

Very nice. From all of the red bits, I'm assuming it's a JCW. Great choice!

 

Rinsed the coat of pollen off her yesterday. Just picked up some Sonax engine cleaner and Gyeon wet coat for the wheels.

 

5 coats of your Geyon Prime? That's gotta be some serious shine! I got 2 or 3 coats of Zaino on my wheels when they first arrived... It's always important to get those early base coats on to protect from brake dust, etc.

I washed my daily driver (a Volvo XC60 - baby SUV) and was amazed at how nasty I'd let it become. It usually got a few coats of Zaino twice a year, but I've been so tied up w/ Rufus since September that I've let it go. It was lucky if I took it through a touchless spray wash That and the Volvo is now parked outside 100% of the time as Rufus has taken its parking space in the garage. A bird took to roosting on the side view mirror last week and the bird crap dripping down the door finally got me off my ass and the wash bucket out. My wife's Audi A6 got a couple quick coats of Zaino while I was polishing out Rufus' paint last November. I've found that my wife is much more forgiving of detailing time spent on the MINI if her car gets shined up at the same time.

Now that the weather is turning warmer and the massive checklist for Rufus is complete, I'm looking forward to some leisure time out in the driveway, catching up on my detailing.

 

Zanio is just a wax with a little sealant in it. It’s not really that good but some people swear by it. I tried in and was not really impressed. All wax only really last 3-4 weeks and does not keep brake dust from bedding into it. Wax is the last thing you should put on your wheels. Sealants on average last about 6 months but not much longer. All of the traditional waxes and sealants do not offer much protection or resistance to contaminates getting stuck to your car. They capture them in the wax and hold them until they are removed or the wax is stripped. Dawn and a clay bar or nanoskin synthetic clay mit that can be rinsed. You can not strip coatings like that.

Coatings / ceramic or carbon based bond with the paint and cure to it. They offer a much better true layered protection that repels contamination and does not let it stick / bond to the paint. Think of coatings as a coated T-fal frying pan. Nothing sticks because of the coating versus a plain pan with butter / wax in it. As it gets warm the protection break down quickly and bakes in to the pan. That’s the best example I can give as to why coating are far more superior to old school wax and sealants. Most people still think coatings are to plastic glassy looking compared to the warm glow of carnuba wax but the formulas have changed and they are almost identical now.

Oh I don’t have 5 coating of Gyeon Prime on my rims. I have a layer of each on the following coatings including Gyeon old PRIME, PURE, (PURE has replaced Prime for 2018) Gyeon MOHS, Gyeon Rim and Kamikaze Stamce coat.

Yes, I have a lot of coatings including all the above and 22 ple VX PRO 2 and Kamikaze ISM coat and Gyeon Syncro. I detail cars as my hobby and I am always buying new coatings to test and keep or I toss them.

I have tested H9 and it’s too much work for what you get and coating a car 9 times is just silly.

CQuarts, several version by carpro, is a pain to work with to get average results, it will provide good results with a good amount of work but too much work compared to Gyeon line of coatings.

Gtechniq is very tempiture sensitive product which makes it very hard to apply and remove smoothly. Think of spending syrup on your paint and then removing for a nice level gloss withnot any streaks. Lol

Gyeon is far and away the market leader in coating, pricing and ease of application and results.

Kamikaze is a small brand from Japan that has been around for a while and is in my opinion is one of the very best. You will have to pay a lot for it and can currently get it from Esoteric is the US but it is a excellent product and looks like wax with the warm glow but is a 2 year plus coating.

 

That is exactly why I replaced my OEM MINI beach chair seats with Recaros from a Mitsubishi IX years ago.

MINI has finally caught up.

 

Tomorrow [Thursday], I'm getting a brake fluid flush for my wife's MCSa and the snow tires switched out for her all seasons [praying that springtime FINALLY arrives].

Yesterday [Tuesday] I got new tires for MY S [BF Goodrich g-Force Super Sports]. Damned sidewalls are like carbon steel...not sure if I like the ride, so far.

Next week I'm getting a brake fluid flush for the R50, so we can negotiate the Dragon safely.