Yesterday I put the R53 in the garage to start working on it and got the Helmet out. Then I was on my way to the parts store to get a new battery cable end for my daughters Jeep when I got a call from my son telling me his Jeep spit a plug out! He tried to put it back in but he said it would just spin! Ok time for a heli-coil. The only problem was he is going college 3.5 hours away and it was almost 4PM. Ran home fixed one Jeep. Grabbed some tools loaded the Helmet and hit the gas! It was only the first 1/4 of threads that were bad so I was able to tap it out and get the plug tight. Back home at 2:30 am. My younger son works two jobs, the first one starts at 4:30am and is going to school year round. He is a good kid. The bad news. Once the jeep got hot it started to run ruff. The parts store were closed and I forgot my code reader. He texted at 4:30 that it runs fine cold. So maybe a coil pac.
Nope, is not going to fit and look anywhere near acceptable. I even asked them on the order comments to double check fitment with my model before completing the order. I read that someone reshaped them with a custom made form and a heat gun, but it will still be wonky on the bottom even with that. Plus, MM is closed all day today for administrative meetings. Will talk to them tomorrow and get a RA#. Anyone know of a decent set of front mud flaps for R55, etc. with JCW trim?
Just finished doing some test fitting of 3rd Gen tug hook and accessories for Raceseng. I will be writing a review of the new products when they become available for retail sale.
Raceseng makes great products. I have a shift knob from them and it is far and away better than anything others offer.
I nap every day. My mom got me started when I was little and I've done it ever since. Smart gal, my mom.
Did some very minor body work the other day. I've noticed that the compact tire that I transferred from my old R50 to the current purchase (2009 JCW Clubman) only went in to the well partway. At first I chalked it up to a less square shouldered Kumho spare tire, but on further inspection, I found a subtle dent/crease in the back of the spare wheel well. Then noticed that one leg of the rear plastic guide that attaches to the bumper is also snapped, indicating a previous rear end/bumper incident (sold as "no accidents", but aside from these two things everything looks fine, so I'll let them know that I know, but I won't bitch about it). I used the compact spare wheel/tire as a rubber BFH to tap the dent back in a little, and the spare now fits easily into the space for it as intended, and the tool tray that fits into the spare wheel and the cover now lie flat no longer stick up a little. No cracked paint or undercoat or anything worrisome so I'm happy.
It had the right weight and a soft but very firm rubber surface and was just the right shape to hit the wheel well side in the right spot to do the job.
Today I changed the belt, tensioner, idler pulley and the crank seal. What I thought was the timing chain cover leaking turned out to be the cam position sensor, so I fixed that too. Also I changed the spark plugs. All I have left is the fuel filter. But right now my wife are taking the Helmet and going to dinner.
Today I calibrated and installed a new wide band o2 sensor, topped off the washer fluid, cleaned the air filter with my air gun and checked the oil. I pulled the car outside and let her warm up for a little bit and took her out for a test drive. Everything is back to normal and she is back to pulling really hard all the way to 8,000 RPMs with Meth. When I got back I dusted her off and I am waiting for my wife so we can go to Home Depot to get flowers for out front and have a Mexican lunch at one of our favorite restaurants.
I changed the oil yesterday and while I had it up on the lift, I saw that I had an oil leak on the right side back of the engine. It appeared to be coming from the timing chain tensioner. Not a bad leak, just 1/2 quart in 5000 miles. When I got the car, I remember reading that some 2010 MINIs came from the factory with the timing chain tensioner not torqued, some people had catastrophic engine failure when the timing chain tensioner backed all the way out. I asked the dealer to check the tensioner eight years ago, while I still had free service on it, they said that they checked it. It appears that they did not. I had to take the hoses and plumbing from the turbocharger off to get a 27 mm socket onto the the tensioner, it was loose. I torqued it to 48 ft/lbs as per specifications. If I had a 27 mm crowfoot or an open end wrench, I think I could have reached it without taking all the plumbing out. My local tool store didn't have any 27mm open end wrenches in stock. I'm sure the dealer had the proper size wrench to check it with out taking things apart, they just didn't check. After eight years, the rubber hoses were stuck to the plastic fittings pretty well, it took me all afternoon to get things apart, wedging screwdrivers and squirting WD-40 alongside the inside of the hose. Anyway, it is all back together and cleaned up, Whew!
Buttoned a few things up in the engine bay this weekend in preparation for our cross country trip to Sconsin this week. Checked and topped off fluids, swapped out that big rubber elbow I had on my intake heading into the cowl for a 135 degree silicone elbow so now it's on piece instead of 3.
Over the weekend I finally got the R52 back together and out of the garage. New ball joints, tie rods ends, powerflex bushings, power steering pump, and alternator. I also replaced a !@#$%& 5A fuse that I know was good when I started this project. I also installed a pair of leather seats I picked up earlier this year, removed the Alta light bar and driving lights the previous owner installed, and replaced the melted battery terminal box.