Ok I tried eliminating the switch. I say tried because I didn’t want to run a jumper on the connector without knowing if it was going to cause damage. I did find a thread where they discussed the switch; a Hall Effect non contact with a possible solution of applying a magnet to trick the switch into thinking it is “on”. I tried multiple strength magnets with no luck. I also read that F6 provides power to that switch as well as the brake lights, tested and all good there. Not wanting to cause more issues I went back to the starter and checked the voltages at the lugs again. Last time I did not test the lug voltage coming from the ignition switch, poor trouble shooting procedures on my part. So Lug “contact 30” should have source from the battery all the time, good there. Lug “contact 50” should have battery source with the ignition switched in the start position, which it does. So I am going with the starter motor being bad seeing I have the required inputs without the end results. Thoughts? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I thank you found your problem. Take it off and have it tested. But I will worn you more than once I have had a bad starter test as good.
I think I am just going to order a new one so it’s here when I get back for install. Thanks MCS02 and 00Mini for the help. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
All set for Christmas. Went out and delivered Christmas cards and presents. Have to do it tonight because Christmas eve is going to be busy.
Gave the family car a bath. We had gone motoring on Vancouver Island to visit friends and relatives. After the trip, she needed a bath.
Over the past couple weeks, B.A. began smelling really gassy. At least I thought it was him, and after sniffing under the hood and underneath and around the garage and the lawnmower, wasn't really sure until... a few days ago, I had him running in the garage (door open of course) while I was data logging on my OBDII device. My mom says it seriously smells like gas all over the house! That's when I found a puddle of gas under the right side rear (under the gas tank!). So, of course, I started researching, and I removed the rear seat and access cover to the fuel filter to discover that there definitely was a gas leak. I did a bit more research and diagnosis and finally found the cause and solution. The sad thing is that until I got this fixed, B.A. was banished from the garage and had to survive the brutal cold and elements out in the driveway!!! :sad: Anyway, What I found was that the o-rings for the gas line connection were gone. I was able to purchase some new ones though and install them. No more leak, problem solved! B.A. is welcome in the garage again! Also, seems to be running much better too since lack of fuel pressure can have terrible effects on an engine! Officially, MINI doesn't sell these and the only option is to replace the entire fuel filter housing, which includes the sending unit and regulator and since it sits in the tank, is a real messy pain in the a** to replace. AND it costs north of $200. I purchased a few cheap tools and new o-rings for slightly less than 10 dollars and was able to replace them without even removing the housing from the tank. Owning a "classic first gen" is becoming quite an adventure!
I got the MINI detailed yesterday, and took it for a nice drive. Then, back in the garage as ugly weather rolls in. I'll have to get the Audi dirty, and get it washed when the weather clears. According to the build date, my MINI is officially 15 years old! Happy New Year! CD
Poor Rufus hasn't made it much farther than our local pizza place in the past 6 months or so, but it has been a few years (longer than I like to wait), so he got some love for the end of 2021 and the start of 2022. A new carbon air filter, fresh plugs (the old ones look remarkably good), an engine flush (LiquiMoly) for 15 minutes, a new filter (OEM) and some fresh oil (LiquiMoly). I've got a new serpentine belt to go on as well (3-4 years old + not many miles on the old one), but the weather looks bad for the weekend and I've got one Christmas wreath that I have to take down by climbing out on the roof, so I'm heading up to get that done before the rain hits.
I guess we all need to take our Minis out for a drive. Lastly all I drive is my truck. Bad weather is headed here tomorrow also so I will have to wait a few days. @GokartPilot did you get the starter changed and did that fix it?
Ordered the part through Amazon so it would be on my door step once I got back to town. Finally had a chance to get to it yesterday and it doesn’t fit. Slight differences but enough to stop this project dead in its tracks. Just found another that looks more like the one I pulled off. One on the left is the “replacement” Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
After doing a quick search on Mini Cooper starters there appears to be a lot of misinformation to this day on Amazon about which starter is the correct one for a R53. ModMINI has a video on the replacing the starter and which number to order.
After checking out the video I seemed to have found a third one,SBO0176, just canceled it and will be putting ModMINI’s suggestion on order. 00Mini, thanks for the search and saving me another week of twiddling my thumbs. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I failed at an attempt to install new PIAA wiper blades on my 2018 F60 Countryman. I bought a set of PIAA Sitech wiper blades for the Countryman from my local Lordco a couple of months ago and my wife didn't want them installed yet. So I finally go around to it. It appears MINI used a different wiper mount with each generation and facelift of the MINI. The wiper mount on my R53 is different than the 2013 R56 Cooper (which was different than all the other R56 years) and now, the F60 Countryman has a totally different mount than PIAA has an adapter for. Since I have had the blades for more than a couple of months, I can't return them. auurrgghh.
I feel your pain! I had to go to the dealer to get blades for my wife’s mini. No one in town had them.