Wiggle the ball joints while disconnected, they should offer some resistance. If they feel dry, gritty, have lateral or vertical movement, or feel just plain sloppy, its time to replace. Inspect each dust boot for tears or surface cracking.
If you would like to have road & engine noise reduced in the cabin, now is the time to pull the header & heat shields and apply thermal and acoustical barriers to the firewall and forward exhaust channel. Check the seal around the steering column, clean the PS fan with compressed air, clean and straighten the AC heat exchanger fins, and inspect the coolant hose fittings at the firewall inlets.
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Keith beat me to the punch...
ball joints. They're cheap and easy to swap with the sub frame down and the control arms off.
Matt -
Ok, finally got this done. Ball joints were in good shape. Put in PF CA bushings (pre-pressed from WMW), PF front swaybar bushings, and TSW endlinks. Feels like a new car! The annoying clunk I had been living with for more than a year is gone. Steering is so much crisper and connected. Zero NVH issues with the PF CA bushings. Happy camper.
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If you had the clunk...
at lest one side was really, really bad.
I really, really don't like the stock unit.
Matt -
Rally New MemberMotoring Alliance Founding Sponsor
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Clunk happened at slow speeds whenever there was independent vertical wheel movement up front. I diagnosed it a while back as a bad front swaybar bushing. Just took me a while to get it fixed because I chickened out of dropping the subframe myself...
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Rally New MemberMotoring Alliance Founding Sponsor
Thanks, sounds like that may be the source of my mystery clunk. That's a bit reassuring.
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For those with a front end cluck...
stock front control arm bushing failure is more common than front sway bar bushing failure. Test to see what it is!
Matt -
Rally New MemberMotoring Alliance Founding Sponsor
Yah, I know mine isn't the swaybar bushing. I'm hoping it's the control arm bushing.