Most liked posts in thread: What to do for the fall/winter

Unless the finish looks like it needs a complete overhaul, don't bother with the Dawn, claybar steps. I don't do a the whole process except about every other year with my Zaino products. Although they do give me a longer finish than the Prima products did.

I also got better long term results from the Epic than the Amigo when I was using the Prima stuff.

 

My normal process is just wash normally, a new layer of Z2 (Epic) and then some Z6 (BG?). This I do about every other month or so during the summer so by winter time I have a very durable finish to get me through the worst of winter and the long time between washes.

Another great product is this from Griots. I use it every wash and even between washes to rinse off the mag. chloride from under the car that they use around here in the winter.

 

Only about once year in the spring if I "feel" it needs it as I found that the Zaino really doesn't "hold" any real noticeable contaminants as long as I wash and wax the car regularly. With the multiple layers of Z2 on the car it really holds up very well.

 

Rixter, Epic gives me about 6mo of wear for me on a everyday driver here in Missouri (using Hydro with nearly every wash)

Considering the mileage you've put on I'd wash it real well and put on a coat of BG and be done with it. Do your complete detail in March

Your call of course. OCD is a beast that must be fed! If you feel the call have at it.

 

Have you read my detailing articles in the library, especially the "Think before you leap" article?

http://www.motoringalliance.com/library/detailing-articles-11/

You Dawn wash when you want to remove a pre-existing wax..note that Dawn doesn't effectively remove synthetic waxes, unless you repeat the process 5 or more times. Dawn removes natural carnaubas pretty well.

Secondly, if you've already waxed your car and and want to further increase the protection, just add more wax on top. Especially if you've been maintaining it with your Hydro.

Note that Amigo ISN'T a wax. Yes it has polymers, but it doesn't offer the protection that Hydro, BG, or Epic does. Just like Mystique has polymers, but I wouldn't assume it's waxing my car after I wash it.

Some people clay based on time. I determine claying based on "need". If the paint surface feels rough or bumpy after cleaning it, then I'll clay it, as long as I've got the time to properly wax it after I'm done.

If you're maintaining your paint for a garaged car, claying is probably needed at most twice a year. My first MINI was clayed once every two years because I quick detailed it every day, not letting contaminants bond to it. For a car parked outdoors, you might need to clay it every 3 to 4 months. There is no harm in claying more often.

If you want the best longevity from your wax, make sure to clay the paint first, then wax it, so the wax will stick to the paint and not to the contaminants.

Richard

 

That blue tape is Scotch-Blue™ Painter’s Tape. Many automotive uses from masking areas when detailing to track days for protection and identification. For something a little different there is green colored tape from 3M as well.

 

Taping is just using the medium tack stuff painters tape found at Home Depot, Target, etc... Available from those stores are 3/4" or 1" and larger. You can find thinner stuff from special autoparts stores, but they get really expensive. I've seen $15/roll for some of the thinnest stuff.

The 3/4 or 1" rolls run around $2.75-$4 a roll. 3/4" tape conforms more easily around curves like the headlamps, but 1" covers emblems easier. The Cooper logo can be covered with a single 1" strip.

I'm not fond of the green tape. Maybe it was just the one I had, but it seemed less durable and didn't stick as well as the blue tape.

re: QD
Yeah that was probably me. But I don't QD my JB MCS. It scratches too easily.

Richard

 

For the thin tape, made it myself

Take a roll of 3/4" and place it flat. Take a utility blade with a new blade and place it flat too. The vertical distance of the handle of the utiltiy blade and the blade itself laying flat is approx 3/8" depending on your mfg.

Hold the blade firm and rotate the roll of tape on the sharp edge for several minutes making sure you are keeping fairly constant pressure. In about 5 minutes of cutting you have more than enough for around the windshield washer jets, around the hood scoop, door handles, etc. Maybe not 'perfect' but a heckuva lot cheaper and just as functional

 

Great tip! From my model airplane days we used to strip balsa wood by gluing an Xacto blade to a piece of wood with a scrap of 1/16" wood as a spacer, then run sheets of wood through that gap to do the same thing.

 

Well OG I owe ya a couple for all the great ones you've given me!

 

One of the more common shop accidents involve utility knives:arf:

I think green tape has a lower tack, is less sticky. Or I could be dreaming:crazy:

Mark

 

Oh yeah, Rixter, YOU NEED TO MOTOR MORE:smilewinkgrin:

Mark