Most liked posts in thread: Wheel Stud Question

I don't think so. Been using the studs for year but always use the hubcentric rings when required too.

Edit... Try not to use the plastic ones, they have a tendency to melt and adhere to the wheel and/or hub.

 

You can try not using hub centric rings. If you end up with balance problems you may have to install the rings. Best thing to do is buy a wheel that has a center bore that matches the hub.

We see people quite often chancing balance problems on their Meotter's only to find out they have omitted the hub centric rings.

 

Try rotating your wheels front to back & see if the vibration changed. It may help you narrow it down. A road force balance should tell you if you have a bum tire.

 

One more thing, at the shop that will do the road force balancing make sure the guy who is best at it does the job. Just because they have the proper equipment doesn't ensure that know how to use it.

 

This is the truth and has been proven at shops all over the country.

 

Glad you found an alternative to WAY and the Dealerships.

I was lucky to find Helix right in my own backyard.

Top notch, Honest and they do great work at fair price. For any real work that needs done to my car it only goes one place, Helix!

* I have a local guy a few blocks away that does my oil changes, tire mounting & balancing and Inspection and Emissions.
If he finds anything he always says ask you buddies at Helix about this or that.

 

13 is Eric the owners favorite number and H is just short for Helix.

It also his web address: http://store.helix13.com/

 

Just get hubcentric rings....
Fought the good fight once...not worth it...
Plastic ones are maybe $5 a set....nice machined metal ones are more $$ and will last...
Either way, put a but of anti-sieze on them before you put on, and a trace bit on the face of the hub/rotor...it will make rim changes simpler, and means the rims/and or rings won't get stuck.

 

Honestly, they were not as smooth with my aftermarket rims....I had plastic...metal rings are said to fix it...
I ended buying a set of used 2013 rims, sold the tires a tpms and had a free set of OEM rims to use rather than buying a set of metal rings......

 

I've only had problems like this with aftermarket rims, which MANY of my cars have had. The BBS rims on my Miata were dead-on perfect, as were the OZ rims on one of my Audis. The others, not so much.

Another thing that you have probably already looked at are the taper on your nuts (whhhaaat?). I wanted to save money using my factory nuts with aftermarket wheels once, and discovered that there are different tapers. My factory nuts were not the right taper for my aftermarket wheels.

Anywho, any time you go from factory to aftermarket, you are going from something thoroughly tested by the manufacturer for use on one specific car, to something made for several cars and adapted to your car. It may take some research and fiddling around to get it to work right. At least, that is my experience.

Lucky for me, I love the factory wheels on my MINI, so I haven't been tempted to go aftermarket.

CD

 

It all depends on the quality of aftermarket rims you buy. Also make sure the wheel bolts are torqued to the correct spec.

My rims do not have this problem at all and I have metal hub centric rings.

Remember you get what you pay for. :idea: :ihih:

Enkei Racing PF01's.

 

Very good point & one that I knew of, but forgot because I'm a forgetful old fart.

 

FWIW I have had plastic rings on 4 sets of wheels & never once had a problem with them. My money is that one or more of your tires doesn't balance out. Call Tire Rack & find out what is an acceptable road force number for your tires.