Most liked posts in thread: Where has the bar been set for R56 power?

I don't have the same portfolio of expertise as PGT and Tuls, but as always I have an opinion.

I think the "bolt to hub" dyno will give you a better idea of what is going on with the car as it eliminates such variables as wheel weight, tire slippage etc. I recall watching some show on Speed few years back where they were doing brake updgrades to some car which required larger wheels which in turn caused a 12 hp loss on the dyno between the extra weight from the wheels and bigger rotors.

As for differences between different dynos they are irrelevant. What you should be looking for is the delta from your mods. I had my JCW dynoed way back in the day at 198 hp. Few years later when I decided to get the RMW tune base line run showed 208 hp. No mods were done in that time and I doubt the car got stronger as it go older. After the tune I was at 218 hp and an extra 13 lbs of torque (as far as I recall at this moment). I saw an imrovement so I was happy.

 

I agree the delta from your original baseline is key.

Good insights and comments on a some dyno diffs.

When $$ allow, I'm going to pursue some runs across a couple of different dyno's before I put the MINI on the dyno for a tune.

My index is if the MINI has more TQ to pull me out of a corner on the track and I have HP to pull with the big boys on the short straights before I out brake them in the corner and swoop to the inside. :devil:

As this develops, I will try to post results.

Don

 

The thing with dynos is calibration. At the end of the day you are relying on the people who own it to make sure it's set up correctly. I have seen a 10% diff between various dynos. Which on a MINI is that much. But if you are making 1000 WHP that's 100 so you will only make 900 WHP on a different one.

I perfer having the wheels ON the car as it's called WHEEL horse power. The Hub dynos are nice as well. They give you a level of safety too Cars wont come off the dyno like they can with roller types. (while rare it does happen if not set up correctly. I personally have never strapped down a car and had it come off.)

The #1 thing I think makes a dyno better than another is if it has an Eddy current. These are used against MACK trucks to put load on them while dynoing and testing. For me it is the only way to put accurate load on the car. So if you HAVE to go hub. try to get one with an eddy current.

Also, remember. The dyno can be calibrated to be more accurate too. At the end of the day. I'd rather it say I have 300 but perform like 350. than say I have 350 and perform like 300.

Last but not least. It's a tool. Only a fool blames his tools. People who blame the dynos... well, that's just silly. But! if people wanna point fingers at the dyno, then tune the car and take it to the strip. good driver or not. the MPH will be with in 3... and therefore be completely accurate.



Here's one other way to think of it. When you run the strip at Palmdale. You are 1000+ feet above sea level. That means you loose atmospheric pressure. There for you loose HP. But so does everyone you are running against. So it's fair. This difference means a loss in time too. So you might run an 11 instead of a 10.5. You know what.... that's what you run that day. Period.

Dont get caught up in #s. If it's #s you want. Then you can have the dyno say whatever you want. My self and Hubie with the help of many many people gathered data from as many dynos as we could. They were all very close. A few here and there were hugely off. If it was one we use regularly we would re calibrate it to be more inline with the average we have seen. Then we always back it up with testing at the strip.

Like anything. Know who you are dealing with. Get the right result.

 

After taking a drive in several of the R55/R56's that Jan has tuned, I can tell you that there is a notable power increase from low RPM all the way through the normal powerband. I was impressed at the difference from our nearly stock R55 MCS drivetrain.

 

I believe we measure HP's different here in europe so treat the numbers accordingly.

With a larger intercooler and a full Alta exhaust and no ECU tune 194hp and 297nm. ECU remap by PPE 241hp and 360nm. So that's an impressive increase. The limiting factor here is the turbo. So getting a bigger turbo is the next step.

Factory JCW 205hp, 299nm. Again PPE tune 250hp, 365nm

The JCW is fairly close to an S which is to be expected as it's basically the same engine.

We had a dyno day a few months back and it was cool to see that the people that changed the exhaust had a fairly big gain (bottleneck?) even without a tune.

I got 205hp, 295nm with a Stage 1 JCW kit. But there was also a guy which only got 185hp with his Stage 1 kit. So the results vary a lot between engines.

Oh and if you plan to do you modifications in stages .. stick to one dyno

 

Ducks, Thanks... PPE?

Are you stating crank HP TQ versus WHP/WTQ?

Thanks again, good perspective from across the pond.

Don

 

PPE = Power Plus Engeneering in Belgium

In mainland europe we mainly use metric horsepower to measure which is nog exactly the same as the the mechanical horsepower you guys use.

Quote from wikipedia