Mine is stuck down. the motor is trying to move it but nothing is happening. There is no "lack of connection" b/c it sounds like it is getting a solid go at it, but no movement. I tried to help it up thinking it might just be the motor dying, but it wouldn't even budge. To me it seems like it is just stuck. Any ideas?
Fred, do you hear the motor whirring and possibly some clicking/grinding from the door? If so you are likely hearing a failed window regulator.
My passenger window is actin up. I smacked it while at a red light. Still didnt budge ill have to get out there later when im thinkin about it and give it a more manly smack. But do u all hear clicks(sounds like from the glove box) when u toggle the switch? The same clicks happen when i toggle the driver side. (also from the glove box or that area) once when it starts and once when it finishes.
I just spent a few hours getting intimate with my drivers window when it wouldn't go down. i read posts on many sites about this cleaning of the commutator and the disassembly of the motor. I did fall for it although as an electro motor repair person I know better. That black on the comm is supposed to be there. It's the layer of carbon that is left by the brushes for the purpose of conductivity. Cleaning it off will only result in another layer being deposited there as soon as you run the motor. I did manage to pull the stator (magnets) without removing everything. A mirror and a flashlight gave me visual access and then some fumbling and a few choice descriptive adjectives helped my get things apart. I put an ohm meter across the brushes and found that there was a circuit. However, I also noticed that the armature was very tight when I attempted to rotate it. In one direction it seemed it didn't want to go any further, but in the other it did move and then got easier. I have decided that the problem is Not the motors but the window cables that are allowing the motor to run to its limit before the limit switched stop them. I'm assuming it to be a cable issue. there isn't enough extra cable at the end of the run and the motors jamb. In the process of the "cleaning' things get moved around and the window motor appears to be fixed, only to have it occur again in a day, a week, a month or a year. I need to find out about the cable and it's proper set up because I am firmly convinced that if the cable were slightly longer, it would never reach it's jamming limit. My car apparently had the interior panel removed at some point in a previous life because there were plenty of screwdriver scratches that indicated the panel had been off before. This also makes me wonder if the passenger side motor that was replaced in warranty when I bought the car (used) suffered from the same problem. the motor was replaced then and things have been working fine, but I have a feeling that all these window motor problems are not the motors but the cable length that operates the windows themselves.