I'm in a similar boat with my car, so I'll be curious to see what other suggestions you might get. I have a massive oil leak from the rear main seal (I'm pretty sure) that I was dumb enough not to look at when I had the trans out only a few months ago. Are you going with the stock clutch? I'm trying to decide now if I just may as well change mine out for something lighter. Decisions, decisions..
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At 140K, there are probably oil leaks at several sensors (cam position sensor and crank position sensor come to mind). Replacing those sensors, or at least replacing the o-rings on them, is a good idea. They are not under any pressure, so the leak will never be huge, but it will get to be drippy eventually.
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im going the route of a clutchmaster stage 4 with a lightened steel flywheel...not as light as the aluminum one so it should cut down on the chatter...i have plans for the engine to boost the power up some more so im cutting out the necessity of having to install a stronger clutch after the bump up in power....plus from what i heard the stage 2/3 ones have a tendency to crap out and glaze over too easily so im taking jan's advice on this
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ill add that to the list of things to check tks drmike...oh yea...are those sensors visible in the engine back or does something have to be removed because if nothing else i can have my dad take a peek under the bonnet to see if anything is leaking or looks like its wet around the seal
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BlimeyCabrio Oscar Goldman of MINIsLifetime Supporter
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Personally I'd add a replacement bypass valve and replacement belt tensioner to the list at that mileage. I've already done both at half that mileage. Neither is expensive while things are already apart.
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Crank angle sensor: on the right side of the block (towards the front of the car) down low, about 4 inches above the top of the oil pan. You can see it from under the car with the splash guard removed. You'll need a flashlight.
Cam angle sensor: at the front of the head (passenger side of the car). You might see something with a flashlight and/or a mirror, but it's tough to get a good view.
In both places, look for black goo or an oil slick. -
blimey i actually replaced my bypass valve with a DT BPV at about 70k miles
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BlimeyCabrio Oscar Goldman of MINIsLifetime Supporter
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Cool. I wonder what the longevity of the DT valve is, compared to OEM?
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Detroit Tuned Well-Known MemberMotoring Alliance Founding Sponsor
Better as our springs don't break. to date i have never had anyone call me and tell me there's went bad.
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BlimeyCabrio Oscar Goldman of MINIsLifetime Supporter
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I haven't heard of any DT BPV failures, either. Just wondering if, eventually, the spring is likely to fatigue given the constant use nature of this part... You get to make more money Chad if you recommend a preventative replacement interval. ;-)
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Detroit Tuned Well-Known MemberMotoring Alliance Founding Sponsor
haha, yeah but not so honest..lol i don't ever think it will have cause for alarm as the spring wire dia is very large. but the casting could crack still and cause it to stick open or shut, but that is still really rare.
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BlimeyCabrio Oscar Goldman of MINIsLifetime Supporter
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Good answer! I like not replacing the BPV any time soon. :cornut:
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me either....that sucker was a ***** to replace lol...the whole time im doing it im thinking....dont break the plastic tube....dont break the plastic tube....
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Great info for everyone here! I would have never thought so many things would need to be looked at on a German built car at that milage!
My Mini has never leaked anything ever and its got 95,000 on it when I sold it. -
Metalman Well-Known MemberLifetime Supporter
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