Most liked posts in thread: PC Tips & Questions

Thanks Mark, nice intro. I'm going to try my P/C for the first time real soon. I'll bet my wrist will get sore, so I'll be ordering the One Grip from Richard after my first "trial". I had some concerns about burning through the paint on high points (concentrated wear of the paint) and have seen a lot of bad wax jobs by people that have used rotary polishers that leave nasty swirl patterns across the paint. Apparently the P/C is much more forgiving.

Ahhhh....... Ummmmm....... Errrrrr.......... By the way, what's the manly thing in the basket?

 

My tip, move the PC slowly when using a polish. I found out from OctaneGuy's clinic that I moved too quickly.

A good guide is that when you see all the overlapping circles the machine makes as it works the polish into the paint, there should be about a 3/8" gap between them. Move too fast and you don't give the machine a chance to do its work.

 

I always wonder how much goop (Epic, Swirl, whatever) do you put on for a 2 square foot area. Can you perhaps show a photo of the appropriate amount? Thanks Mark

 

Good point on misting the pad with QD. I was wondering if the goop went on a dry pad? Now I know.

Thanks, Mark

 

Great thread Mark! I like to QD a new pad because it softens it, however it depends. Sometimes I want more cutting power (i.e. aggressiveness) and won't QD it. Another way to soften it is to use it slightly damp after washing the pad. I have the benefit of a rotary buffer that I can spin dry a pad after washing it. The PC isn't as effective for drying pads though it will work, just won't get as dry as a rotary will do. Some people have purchased cheap $25 Harbor Freight rotary buffers to use strictly for drying their pads and not using on their car.

How much product you need is determined by experience. You want the pad to be lubricated while polishing, too little product and you won't have effective polishing and the pad might abrade the paint too much. It might end up marring it more than polishing it.

Also knowing how long to polish to break down the diminishing abrasives is another thing you learn with experience.

I've actually got it down to a science where I will intentionally use broken down Swirl as a finer polishing medium, i.e. I will use the existing broken down polish to achieve better results, than putting on fresh product and breaking that down. It varies on what stages of polishing I'm in and what I'm trying to achieve.

As for burning paint, like Mark said, unless the paint is compromised, or you are bearing down on thin paint, the chances of harming or burning it is minimal.

There are ways to burn paint with a PC though. Use an orange or yellow pad without enough polish on a sharp edge of a car and hold it there until it gets hot. A 7424xp will get noticeably hotter than the 7424. Also bumper covers have a lower threshold for paint adhesion than metal does, so if you heat that too much, the paint will shrivel up.

Richard

 

Am I correct in translating QD to: Mequirs Quick Detailer?
Thanks--

 

Thanks -- I am a beginner and not up on all acronyms.

 

All great stuff!

Think my question is geared toward OG, maybe Mark

There is a body of knowledge on car paint/clear coat and different types, it's properties, adhesion, how it interacts with visible light and what types of detailing products bring out it's best.

Any basic info you could share?

 

See here
http://www.motoringalliance.com/forums/detailing/2569-paint-knowledge.html

 

Anyone use an air-driven RO?

 

I've used the air powered RO for wetsanding paint. It's nice because it is so lightweight, your wrists don't get tired at all. In Europe, air driven orbitals are popular, though it might have something to do with the fact that people need to use transformers to convert the electricity of the PC's to work there, so I've been told.

For polishing paint, I like the added heft of the electric polishers. Being able to polish by using only the weight of the machine is more easily done than with a lighter weight air driven tool. Plus as Mark said, the airhoses can be a bit unwieldy while working.

 

I ask cause I have been using one for long time. The cost (if you already have a decent compressor) is a lot less than the electric ones. And I do like the weight advantage, as I don't need the added bulk for pressure. I also put the air hose thru a belt loop at the back of my pants and it does a great job of keeping the hose out of my way.

So if you have a decent sized compressor ( mine is a 27 gal 6cfm@90psi) the air driven ones are a nice alternative.

 

Would some people share their pad cleaning practices?